What can you mix with centella asiatica (Cica)?
- Centella asiatica sits happily next to retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, vitamin C, niacinamide, glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, copper peptides, bakuchiol, vitamin E, ferulic acid, AHA/BHA peel, sunscreen, mandelic acid, tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, snail mucin and squalane.
What it does
Centella asiatica, also called cica or gotu kola, is a plant whose leaves contain triterpenes such as madecassoside, asiaticoside and asiatic acid. These compounds calm inflammation and support collagen production in wound-healing studies, which is why centella appears in barrier creams and soothing serums.[1]
Strengths
- A 2021 review summarizes evidence for its effects on several skin diseases and on wound healing.[1]
- A cosmetology review describes its use for scars, irritation and aging skin.[2]
- It is very well tolerated, so it suits reactive skin that cannot handle many actives.[2]
Who it suits
Sensitive, irritated or post-procedure skin, plus people using retinoids or acids who want a calming step.
Who should skip
Allergic reactions are rare but possible, especially with whole extracts. The amount in many products is small, so check where it sits on the ingredient list.[2]
How to start
Centella works best as a steady calming layer rather than a treatment you notice overnight. Pat a serum or essence onto damp skin, or use a cica cream as your moisturizer, morning and evening.
It is especially useful in the weeks you start a retinoid or acid, on skin chafed by masks or shaving, and after cosmetic procedures if your provider agrees. Many cica creams also include panthenol, madecassoside and zinc oxide, so read the full ingredient list to see what is doing the soothing.
Common mistakes: expecting centella to clear acne or fade marks on its own, piling three cica products on top of each other, and assuming every green-labelled cream holds a meaningful amount. Check where the extract or its purified compounds such as madecassoside sit in the list; near the end usually means a token dose.
Also remember plant extracts can still trigger allergy, so a patch test is sensible for very reactive skin.
What we recommend
We haven't found a product that passes our check yet.
Pairing grid
Moisturizer order
Before moisturizer. Full layering steps.