Can you use retinol with squalane?
The chemistry
Squalane is the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene, an oil the skin naturally produces. It is an emollient that reduces water loss and feels light (Huang 2009, Fiume 2023). Retinol often causes dryness and flaking (Kafi 2007). Squalane does not interact with retinol, so it is purely a comfort step. Squalene is part of human sebum but oxidises quickly, which is why cosmetic products use squalane, the saturated version, which stays stable on the shelf and on skin. Originally sourced from shark liver, most squalane today comes from olives or sugarcane. The cosmetic safety review found it safe and non-irritating in typical use (Fiume 2023). Because it is a thin, non-greasy oil, it suits people who find creams heavy but need extra comfort during retinol use.
Role
Emollient comfort.
Order
Retinol first, squalane after.
Pores
Generally non-comedogenic.
Common mistakes
A few drops are enough. Oily skin may prefer a lotion. There are two common ways to use the pair. You can apply retinol to dry skin and then a few drops of squalane, which seals in moisture and softens flakes. Or you can apply squalane first as a buffer if your skin is very sensitive, accepting that retinol penetration may be a little lower. Some people mix a drop of squalane with their retinol to make spreading easier. Squalane is rated low on comedogenic scales, but anyone with acne should introduce it slowly and watch for new bumps. In the morning, squalane can go under sunscreen to help with retinol dryness. Squalane also works well around the eyes and the corners of the nose and mouth, where retinol flaking tends to concentrate.
Your routine
Morning
- Cleanser
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen
Evening
- Cleanser
- Retinol
- Squalane
Go slower if
Very low risk.
Evidence strength
Good for retinol; squalane is well tolerated.
Products with retinol or squalane
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
Picked for retinol
Same squalane base as the 0.5%, with retinol stepped up to 1%.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane
Picked for retinol
0.5% retinol in squalane and jojoba oil, a gentler starting strength.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)FAQ
Is squalane the same as squalene?
Squalane is the stable form.
Will squalane make retinol less effective?
Applied after retinol, it should not. Applied before, it may slightly reduce penetration, which some sensitive users prefer.
Is plant squalane different from shark squalane?
Chemically it is the same; plant sources are more ethical.
My retinol already comes in a squalane base. Do I need more?
Usually not. Add a few drops only if you still feel dry or tight after the first weeks.
Can squalane replace my moisturizer while I am on retinol?
For normal or oily skin, sometimes. Dry skin generally needs a cream with humectants as well, because oil alone does not add water.
Related combinations
- Vitamin CYes, with timing
- NiacinamideYes
- TretinoinNo, not together
- Salicylic AcidYes, with timing
- Hyaluronic AcidYes
- Glycolic AcidYes, with timing
- Benzoyl PeroxideYes, with timing
- SunscreenYes
Sources
- Huang ZR, Lin YK, Fang JY. Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules. 2009;14(1):540-554.
- Fiume M, et al. Squalane and squalene. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(3 Suppl):107S-109S.
- Kafi R, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606-612.