Can you use glycolic acid with shaving?
The chemistry
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that loosens dead surface cells (Kornhauser 2010). For people who get razor bumps, that can help. In two placebo-controlled studies in 35 men with pseudofolliculitis barbae, the ingrown-hair inflammation caused by shaving, a glycolic acid lotion cut lesions by over 60% on the treated side and let the men shave daily with little irritation (Perricone 1993). The American Academy of Dermatology's shaving tips include wetting skin first, shaving in the direction of hair growth, rinsing after each swipe and changing blades after 5 to 7 shaves (AAD shaving). Shaving also scrapes off surface cells, so an acid straight afterwards stings and irritates more.
Chemistry
Not a chemical question: shaving is a physical exfoliation.
Irritation
High if applied right after shaving.
Order and wait
Shave, then wait several hours, ideally until night, before glycolic acid.
Common mistakes
The most common mistake is swiping an acid toner straight after shaving, which burns. Another is shaving against the grain to get closer, which the AAD links to razor bumps (AAD shaving). A third is skipping sunscreen on shaved, acid-treated skin; glycolic acid increases UV damage (Kaidbey 2003).
Your routine
Morning
- Wet skin, shave with the grain
- Rinse, plain moisturizer
- Sunscreen SPF 30+
Evening
- Gentle cleanser
- Glycolic acid lotion or toner on shaved areas
- Moisturizer
Go slower if
Skip glycolic acid on cuts, rashes or sunburn. If razor bumps keep coming back or scar, see a dermatologist.
Evidence strength
Moderate. Two small placebo-controlled studies found glycolic acid reduced razor bumps in men who shave (Perricone 1993). No study has measured the best gap after shaving.
What we recommend
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
A 7% glycolic acid toner for the evening, hours after you shave, never on freshly shaved or nicked skin.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)FAQ
Do I use glycolic acid before or after shaving?
After, but not right after. Shave first, and apply glycolic acid that night or several hours later. No study has compared timings.
How long should I wait after shaving to use glycolic acid?
At least a few hours; many people simply use it at night after a morning shave. No interval has been tested.
Does glycolic acid help razor bumps?
In two small placebo-controlled studies it cut lesions by over 60% (Perricone 1993).
Can I use glycolic acid on shaved legs or underarms?
Yes, with the same wait, and skip it on any area that stings or is nicked.
Related combinations
- RetinolYes, with timing
- Vitamin CYes, with timing
- NiacinamideYes
- TretinoinYes, with timing
- Salicylic AcidYes, with care
- Hyaluronic AcidYes
- Benzoyl PeroxideYes, with timing
- SunscreenYes
Sources
- Perricone NV. Treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae with topical glycolic acid: a report of two studies. Cutis. 1993;52(4):232-235.
- Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010;3:135-142.
- American Academy of Dermatology. How to shave.
- Kaidbey K, et al. Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2003;19(1):21-27.