Can you use retinol with PHA?
The chemistry
Polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid give exfoliating and smoothing effects similar to glycolic acid with less stinging, and they also attract water. A review of PHA studies reports that PHA products used with retinoic acid for adult acne were well tolerated, and that PHA plus a retinyl ester improved skin smoothness (Grimes 2004). In acne, 14% gluconolactone reduced lesions in a trial against benzoyl peroxide, with fewer side effects (Hunt 1992). Retinol improves fine wrinkles over months (Kafi 2007). The risk is not a chemical clash but stacking two exfoliating steps.
Gentle
PHA stings less than glycolic acid.
Rhythm
Alternate nights before trying both together.
Sunscreen
Both raise sun sensitivity.
Common mistakes
PHA appeals to people who find glycolic acid too harsh but still want smoother texture alongside a retinoid. Start by using retinol on two or three nights and a PHA toner or serum on one or two other nights, with at least one rest night. After a month without irritation, some people can use a low-strength PHA in the morning and retinol at night, or a PHA cleanser instead of a leave-on product. If you see redness, flaking or burning, cut the PHA first, because retinol is usually the step you are trying to keep. Products that combine PHA with a retinoid exist; use those as the only exfoliating step rather than adding more.
Your routine
Morning
- Gentle cleanser
- Moisturizer
- Sunscreen SPF 30+
Evening
- Cleanser
- Retinol OR PHA (alternate nights)
- Moisturizer
Sample week
Retinol three nights, PHA two, two rest nights; adjust if your skin feels tight.
Go slower if
Avoid retinoids in pregnancy unless your doctor approves. Stop for a few nights if your skin stings or peels.
Evidence strength
Moderate for PHA tolerability and use with retinoids (Grimes 2004; Hunt 1992). Strong for retinol on aging skin (Kafi 2007). No head-to-head trial of this exact routine.
Products with retinol or PHA
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
Picked for retinol
Same squalane base as the 0.5%, with retinol stepped up to 1%.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)NeoStrata Restore PHA Facial Cleanser
Picked for PHA
Gluconolactone, a gentle PHA, is second on the label, with panthenol.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)FAQ
Can I use PHA and retinol on the same night?
Possibly once your skin is used to both, but alternate nights is safer at first.
Is PHA better than AHA with retinol?
PHA is gentler, so it usually combines more comfortably.
Can I use PHA in the morning and retinol at night?
Yes, if your skin tolerates it, with sunscreen.
Does PHA help acne?
A 14% gluconolactone lotion reduced acne lesions in one trial.
How long before I see smoother skin?
Several weeks for PHA; retinol takes about three months.
Related combinations
- Vitamin CYes, with timing
- NiacinamideYes
- TretinoinNo, not together
- Salicylic AcidYes, with timing
- Hyaluronic AcidYes
- Glycolic AcidYes, with timing
- Benzoyl PeroxideYes, with timing
- SunscreenYes
Sources
- Grimes PE, et al. The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis. 2004;73(2 Suppl):3-13.
- Hunt MJ, Barnetson RS. A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. Australas J Dermatol. 1992;33(3):131-134.
- Kafi R, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606-612.
- Bozzo P, Chua-Gocheco A, Einarson A. Safety of skin care products during pregnancy. Can Fam Physician. 2011;57(6):665-667.