Can you use lactic acid with moisturizer?
The chemistry
Lactic acid is a larger AHA than glycolic acid and both exfoliates and acts as a humectant (Kornhauser 2010). In a three-month study, 12% lactic acid improved epidermal and dermal firmness more than 5%, with smoother texture on both strengths (Smith 1996). Separately, a double-blind contralateral trial found 12% lactate lotion reduced xerosis severity more durably than a nonlactated emollient after treatment stopped (Dahl 1983). Prescription ammonium lactate lotion 12% is labeled for dry, scaly skin and itching from xerosis or ichthyosis vulgaris; the label says to shake well, apply twice daily and rub in thoroughly, and to minimize sun on treated areas (Ammonium lactate label). Cosmetic lactic serums sit in the treatment slot of the AAD order, then a plain cream seals them (AAD order). The FDA AHA page applies the same sun-protection advice to lactic acid as to other AHAs (FDA AHA page).
Leave-on serum
Acid first, moisturizer after dry-down.
12% lotion
Often is the moisturizer step; follow the label.
Sun
Minimize sun on treated skin; use SPF (Ammonium lactate label, FDA AHA page).
Common mistakes
People sometimes layer a strong lactic serum under ammonium lactate lotion and under another AHA cream, which stacks three exfoliants. Others use body-strength 12% lotion on a freshly shaved face and sting for the rest of the evening; the label warns about stinging on abraded skin and urges caution on the face. A third habit is skipping SPF because lactic acid feels hydrating; the sun alert still applies. If your only lactic product is a body lotion for legs and feet, keep facial acids separate and do not treat the lotion as a face serum.
Your routine
Morning
- Cleanse
- Moisturizer if needed
- Broad-spectrum SPF 30+
Evening
- Cleanse, pat dry
- Lactic acid serum, or ammonium lactate lotion as directed
- Plain moisturizer if you used a thin serum
Go slower if
Minimize sun on skin treated with ammonium lactate lotion and use sunscreen with other AHA products (Ammonium lactate label, FDA AHA page). Ask a clinician before facial use of prescription strengths if you are pregnant or nursing; the label says use in pregnancy only if clearly needed.
Evidence strength
Moderate for lactic acid itself (Smith 1996, Dahl 1983) and for label directions (Ammonium lactate label). Pairing order with a separate moisturizer is practical advice; it has not been tested against cream-first.
Products with lactic acid
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA
Picked for lactic acid
10% lactic acid paired with glycerin and hyaluronic acid crosspolymer.
Buy on Amazon (opens in a new tab)FAQ
Does lactic acid go before or after moisturizer?
A leave-on serum goes before. A 12% ammonium lactate lotion often replaces a separate cream on the treated area.
How long should I wait?
Until a serum feels dry, usually a few minutes. The lotion label sets no wait after rubbing it in.
Is 5% enough?
Smith found both 5% and 12% smoothed skin; 12% changed firmness measures more (Smith 1996).
Can I use lactic acid every day?
Many leave-ons are labeled for nightly or every-other-night use. Match the bottle and stop if irritation builds.
Related combinations
- RetinolYes, with timing
- Vitamin CYes, with timing
- NiacinamideYes
- TretinoinYes, with timing
- Salicylic AcidYes, with care
- Hyaluronic AcidYes
- Glycolic AcidYes, with care
- Benzoyl PeroxideYes, with timing
Sources
- Smith WP. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;35(3 Pt 1):388-391.
- Dahl MV, Dahl AC. 12% lactate lotion for the treatment of xerosis. A double-blind clinical evaluation. Arch Dermatol. 1983;119(1):27-30.
- Ammonium Lactate Lotion, 12%. Prescribing information. Sun Pharmaceutical Industries. DailyMed, U.S. National Library of Medicine.
- Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2010;3:135-142.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Cosmetic ingredients. Content current as of 11/22/2022.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Should I apply my skin care products in a certain order?