What can you mix with PHA (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid)?
- PHA with retinol needs care: start slowly or alternate days.
What it does
Polyhydroxy acids, mainly gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, are chemical exfoliants related to alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid. Their larger molecules penetrate more slowly, so they exfoliate more gently, and their many hydroxyl groups attract and hold water.[1]
Strengths
- A review reports PHAs give AHA-like smoothing with less stinging and are compatible with sensitive skin, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis.[1]
- PHA products were well tolerated alongside retinoic acid in adult acne.[2]
- In a 150-patient trial, 14% gluconolactone reduced acne lesions with fewer side effects than 5% benzoyl peroxide.[2]
Who it suits
Sensitive or dry skin that wants exfoliation, people who find glycolic acid too strong, and retinoid users looking for a gentle acid.
Who should skip
Freshly irritated or broken skin. Do not stack it with several other acids.[2]
How to start
Use a PHA toner, serum or cleanser two or three times a week at first, usually at night, then build to daily if your skin is comfortable. Apply to dry skin, then moisturizer.
If you also use a retinoid, alternate nights to begin with. Use SPF 30 or higher in the morning, because any exfoliant can increase sun sensitivity.
PHAs are often found with other acids in one product; count that product as your exfoliating step. Common questions: Is PHA better than AHA?
It is gentler; AHAs like glycolic acid exfoliate more strongly. Does PHA help acne?
One trial of gluconolactone lotion found it did. Can I use it daily?
Many people can once their skin has adjusted.
What we recommend
We haven't found a product that passes our check yet.
Pairing grid
In tracked products
2 of the 144 products we track list PHA as a key active; In their ingredient lists it sits at a median position of #3, from #2 in NeoStrata Restore PHA Cleanser to #5 in PHA + BHA; It is among the first five ingredients in 2 of them, meaning a main ingredient rather than a trace; The actives it most often shares a bottle with: hyaluronic acid (1) and salicylic acid (1); Water is the first ingredient in 1 of them; the rest are oil, silicone or solvent-based. Product by product: NeoStrata Restore PHA Cleanser lists it at #2 of 17; PHA + BHA lists it at #5 of 22.